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Slides of runway show(s) by Dior, spring/summer 1993., 1993

 folder
Identifier: SC.497.362

Scope and Contents

Slides of runway show(s) by Dior, spring/summer 1993.

Dates

  • Creation: 1993

Creator

Language of Materials

From the Collection:

English Latin

Conditions Governing Access

Access is open to researchers by appointment at the Fashion Institute of Technology Library, Department of Special Collections and FIT Archive. If you have any questions, or wish to schedule an appointment contact us at [email protected] or call (212) 217-4385.

Biographical / Historical

Christian Dior is a world renowned French fashion house, selling both ready-to-wear and couture women's and men's clothing and accessories. The company was founded in December of 1946 by Christian Dior. Dior's first collection was shown on February 12th for Spring / Summer 1947. This legendary collection helped re-establish the French fashion industry after World War II and launched the "New Look," a term coined by Carmel Snow, the editor of "Harper's Bazaar." The "New Look" silhouette consisted of long, full skirts, nipped waists, full busts, and soft shoulders. The rich and famous came from all around the world to order Dior designs. In 1948, Dior established a ready-to-wear boutique on the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street in New York. A year after that, Dior became the first couturier to arrange licensed production of his garments. By the mid-1950s, the firm was one of the most successful and popular fashion brands in Paris. Sadly, in 1957, only a decade after the brand rocketed to fame, Christian Dior passed away. Dior's assistant, a young Yves Saint Laurent, took over as head designer. He introduced the ligne Trapèze, a large A-line dress that hid the female form, the antithesis of the silhouette that helped establish Dior. Having been called to serve in the millitary, Saint Laurent had to step down as designer in 1960. Marc Bohan, then working in Dior's London firm designing suits. Bohan designed for Dior until 1989. During this time, Bohan grew Dior into a large operation and opened stores in Euorpe, North America, and Asia. In 1978, Dior was sold to the Willot Group. Soon after, Bernard Arnault purchased Dior from the Willot Group. Italian-born Gianfranco Ferré replaced Bohan in 1989. Under Ferré, who's style was more classic and chic, Dior continued to grow in popularity. Ferré left in 1996 and was replaced by John Galliano. Arnault compared Galliano to Christian Dior, stating that Galliano "has the same extraordinary mixture of romanticism, feminism and modernity that symbolized Monsieur Dior. In all of his creations - his suits, his dresses - one finds similarities to the Dior style." With Galliano at the reigns, Christian Dior became known for their lavish, over-the-top fashion shows. In 1999, the now-signature saddlebag was designed. Galliano remained head designer until 2011 when he was fired after making anti-semetic remaks. Having worked for Galliano under both the Dior label and Galliano's own company, Bill Gaytten was appointed as the head designer. Gaytten's time at Dior was short; In 2012 Raf Simons was named as the new head designer, despite having no background in couture. However, his first collection was praised by the fashion elite. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the former Valentino co-creative director, replaced Simmons in 2016, becoming the first female to head up the label. Chiuri has a more relaxed design aesthetic. Her 2018 ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-shirts instantly became an iconic fashion moment.

Full Extent

From the Collection: 1 placeholder : * 80 linear feet of slides housed in 160 6"x15.5"x10" boxes. * Accrual added in 2024 not yet processed

General

Christian Dior is a world renowned French fashion house, selling both ready-to-wear and couture women's and men's clothing and accessories. The company was founded in December of 1946 by Christian Dior. Dior's first collection was shown on February 12th for Spring / Summer 1947. This legendary collection helped re-establish the French fashion industry after World War II and launched the "New Look," a term coined by Carmel Snow, the editor of "Harper's Bazaar." The "New Look" silhouette consisted of long, full skirts, nipped waists, full busts, and soft shoulders. The rich and famous came from all around the world to order Dior designs. In 1948, Dior established a ready-to-wear boutique on the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street in New York. A year after that, Dior became the first couturier to arrange licensed production of his garments. By the mid-1950s, the firm was one of the most successful and popular fashion brands in Paris. Sadly, in 1957, only a decade after the brand rocketed to fame, Christian Dior passed away. Dior's assistant, a young Yves Saint Laurent, took over as head designer. He introduced the ligne Trapèze, a large A-line dress that hid the female form, the antithesis of the silhouette that helped establish Dior. Having been called to serve in the millitary, Saint Laurent had to step down as designer in 1960. Marc Bohan, then working in Dior's London firm designing suits. Bohan designed for Dior until 1989. During this time, Bohan grew Dior into a large operation and opened stores in Euorpe, North America, and Asia. In 1978, Dior was sold to the Willot Group. Soon after, Bernard Arnault purchased Dior from the Willot Group. Italian-born Gianfranco Ferré replaced Bohan in 1989. Under Ferré, who's style was more classic and chic, Dior continued to grow in popularity. Ferré left in 1996 and was replaced by John Galliano. Arnault compared Galliano to Christian Dior, stating that Galliano "has the same extraordinary mixture of romanticism, feminism and modernity that symbolized Monsieur Dior. In all of his creations - his suits, his dresses - one finds similarities to the Dior style." With Galliano at the reigns, Christian Dior became known for their lavish, over-the-top fashion shows. In 1999, the now-signature saddlebag was designed. Galliano remained head designer until 2011 when he was fired after making anti-semetic remaks. Having worked for Galliano under both the Dior label and Galliano's own company, Bill Gaytten was appointed as the head designer. Gaytten's time at Dior was short; In 2012 Raf Simons was named as the new head designer, despite having no background in couture. However, his first collection was praised by the fashion elite. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the former Valentino co-creative director, replaced Simmons in 2016, becoming the first female to head up the label. Chiuri has a more relaxed design aesthetic. Her 2018 ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-shirts instantly became an iconic fashion moment.

General

Published

Repository Details

Part of the Special Collections and FIT Archive Repository

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