Slides of runway show(s) by Emanuel Ungaro, fall/winter 1990., 1990

French couturier and ready-to-wear designer. Ungaro evolved from designing radical fashions to creating sensual yet empowering clothing for women.



Ungaro was born in France to Italian immigrants; his father was a men’s tailor in Aix-en-Provence and taught Ungaro the trade from the age of 11. As the son of hard-working immigrants, Ungaro was always determined to prove himself. In his early 20s he moved to Paris to become a fashion designer. For six years, beginning in 1958, he worked as an assistant for Cristobal Balenciaga . Ungaro had great respect for ‘the Master’ and learnt a great deal from him. He then worked for his friend and fellow former Balenciaga apprentice André Courrèges for two seasons.



In 1965, Ungaro opened his own couture house with his girlfriend, the graphic artist Sonja Knapp. At this time, Paris couture was under attack as a relic of the past, and ready-to-wear was far more appealing to the younger generation. Ungaro was a pioneer of the new couture; he was anti-establishment, wanting to ‘kill the couture’ as it existed at the time. His early collections were extremely avant-garde and he was often associated with other forward-looking ‘space age’ designers, such as Pierre Cardin . Ungaro’s lines were clean and his look was contemporary if not futuristic. He designed miniskirts in bright pink and orange, as well as synthetic A-line dresses with bright geometric patterns. He satirized traditional evening clothes and the attitude behind them by showing evening trouser suits and jumpsuits. In 1969 he showed a full-length cloak made of medallions of lace adorned with ping-pong balls, worn over matching shorts and an aluminum bra. However, by 1968 he was softening his style and becoming known for feminine, though ultra-short, mini dresses.



In the 1970s, Ungaro’s style continued to evolve. He decided that what women wanted was sensuality and seduction. His designs became richer and more fluid. He was no longer designing to make a statement; he was designing for women. Yet the fashion press did not receive these collections well. They favoured the minimalism of the designer Halston to Ungaro’s increasingly complex colors and prints. Ungaro proved to be ahead of his time and eventually came into his own in the early 1980s. He became known for printed silks in bright, rich jewel colors. Patterns included florals, animal prints, paisleys and plaids, and many were designed by Sonja Knapp. But it was not only the distinctive prints that were Ungaro’s signature, but the mixing of several different patterns and colors in one outfit ( see fig. ). When a muted color such as charcoal grey was used for a dress, it was paired with a bright salmon or aqua jacket. Black-and-white prints were bold and graphic. Ungaro mixed the textures of fabrics as well as patterns and colors. A simple combination of black and gold was rendered sumptuous in velvet, chiffon and brocade. The look was extravagant yet refined, and very sophisticated.



While Ungaro’s color and pattern combinations were often assertive, his shapes were feminine. Dresses were shirred, pleated and draped. Body-conscious short silk wrap dresses were his best sellers, and his many variations of draped silk dresses were also very popular. A strapless dress with a pattern of printed roses was a classic Ungaro design. Elegant tailored trouser suits had loose, flowing lines. Ungaro’s work was considered perfect for the 1980s woman—strong yet feminine. His body-hugging evening dresses looked both powerful and sensual, and his bright and bold print combinations assured attention ( see fig. ). In addition to this quality of sensuality, Ungaro is also considered an intellectual designer. He spent months reading Proust to prepare for a collection that would capture the elegance of fashion before World War I, and regularly worked to the sounds of Beethoven or opera. He has been described as passionate, dedicated, aloof, meticulous and a perfectionist by those who know him, including his former assistant, Giorgio Armani . Never interested in publicity, Ungaro was obsessed with his craft.



Over the course of his 25-year career as a couturier, Ungaro’s business included several ready-to-wear lines at different price points, such as the labels Parallèle and Emanuel, as well as a menswear line, accessories and fragrances. Ungaro’s first client was Baroness Marie-Hélène de Rothschild, and she remained a loyal customer. Other clients included Lauren Bacall, Maria Shriver, Nan Kempner, Anne Getty and Ivana Trump. In 1982 he won a Golden Thimble award, the highest fashion honor in France. In 2001, Ungaro retired from designing and was succeeded by Giambattista Valli, Vincent Darre and Peter Dundas. While the label continues to put out chic and body-conscious fashions, the couture collections ended with Ungaro’s retirement.

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