Mainbocher scrapbook collection
Scope and Contents
This collection consists of 39 scrapbooks created by Mainbocher documenting his projects and career, with additional records (primarily correspondence) written by Mainbocher, Nancy White, and Carmel Snow.
Scrapbooks mainly contain newsprint clippings, magazine tears, and other press documenting Mainbocher's designs for women's wear, uniforms (military, Red Cross, Girl Scouts and others), lingerie, theatrical costume, wedding gowns and evening gowns; interspersed are some photographs, Playbills, programs, and other records related to his career. Mainbocher often made it onto annual lists of top designers, and his clients onto "International best dressed" lists. Clients included leading personalities and Hollywood actresses such as Wallis Simpson, Fleur Cowles, Mary Martin, Lynn Fontaine and Lauren Bacall; other fashion designers such as John Galanos, Molyneux, Elsa Schiaparelli, Lanvin, Christian Dior, Charles James, etc. appear across the scrapbooks. Many clippings in the scrapbooks were written by well-known fashion correspondents such as Virginia Pope, Gertrude Bailey, Eugenia Shepherd, Francine Post, Dana Jenney, Marjorie Ellis McCrady, Suzy, Inez Robb, Alice Hughes, and Ruth Preston.
Dates
- Creation: 1938-1976
Creator
- Mainbocher (1891-1976) (Person)
Language of Materials
The language of the scrapbook contents is primarily English, however, articles in Spanish, Dutch and Hebrew appear in several of the volumes.
Conditions Governing Access
Access is open to researchers by appointment at the Fashion Institute of Technology Library, Department of Special Collections and FIT Archive. If you wish to schedule an appointment to view this material or have any questions, visit our website.
NOTE: Photocopied reproductions of the scrapbooks should be provided for research instead of originals for preservation reasons.
Conditions Governing Use
The Department of Special Collections and FIT Archive does not own copyright for all material held in its physical custody. It is the researcher's obligation to abide by and satisfy copyright law (Title 17, Chapter 1, Section 108) when copying or using materials (including digital materials) found in or made available from the department. When possible, the department will inform a researcher about the copyright status of material, the researcher's obligations with regard to such material, and, wherever possible, the owner or owners of the copyrights. Any and all reproduction of originals is at the archivist's discretion.
Biographical / Historical
Mainbocher (1891-1976) was the first American-born designer to work as a successful Paris couturier. He was also the first to transfer his business from France to America in 1940 at the outbreak of World War II. Before becoming a designer, he was an intelligence officer with the American forces, opera singer, staff artist at Harper's Bazaar and fashion editor turned editor-in-chief at Paris Vogue. He debuted his first collection in Paris in November 1930, and designed biannual collections in America from 1940 to 1971. Throughout his career, Mainbocher was known for his ageless style and quietly pursued his own private vision. He maintained his belief that "women ought to be investors, not speculators in fashion," and likened his clothes to museum pieces. Although he claimed he was not interested in setting trends or influencing the fashion world, his designs did just that.
He studied classical singing in Munich and Paris. He had intended to pursue an operatic career until overcome by severe stage fright. It was then that he turned his attention to fashion design as a career.
He introduced the strapless evening gown, designed uniforms for the Red Cross, the Waves, Spars, Girl Scouts. He made a success with elegant, wearable clothes; elegant evening gowns were his forte. He has been ranked with Molyneux, Schiaparelli, Lelong. His philosophy has been widely quoted: "The responsibility and challenge...is to consider the design and the woman at the same time. Woman should look beautiful rather than just trendful."
Full Extent
49 Linear Feet (39 boxed and unboxed scrapbooks, plus one archival document box)
Physical Characteristics and Technical Requirements
The scrapbooks are extremely fragile and require mediated access. Several of the scrapbooks are housed in archival boxes, while others are still bound but not boxed.
Immediate Source of Acquisition
Donated by Nancy White in the early 1980s to the FIT Library, and originally assigned identifier Y-21.
Existence and Location of Originals
The Library of the Fashion Institute of Technology, Department of Special Collections and FIT Archive, 27th St. at 7th Ave., NY, NY , USA, 10001
Subject
- Mainbocher (1891-1976) (subject, Person)
- Title
- Mainbocher scrapbook collection
- Author
- Ashley-Paige Frankel; Samantha Levin
- Date
- 2019-02-23
- Description rules
- Aat; Ansi; Dacs; Dcmi; Isad(g); Iso; Lo C; Niso; Etc
- Language of description
- English
- Script of description
- Latin
- Edition statement
- Finding aid updated by Julie Sandy Boyle, Jun 2026
Repository Details
Part of the Special Collections and FIT Archive Repository
Fashion Institute of Technology - SUNY
Goodman Resource Center | Room E432
New York NY 10001 USA
(212) 217-4385
[email protected]