Jerry Miller collection, 1948-1982
Scope and Contents
The Jerry Miller collection holds primarily sketches, photographs, shoe patterns and samples, and press clippings from the shoe companies of Jerrold Miller and designer Margaret Clark. There are also publications from the Mademoiselle shoe forecasting company.
Dates
- Creation: 1948-1982
Creator
- Miller, Jerry (Twentieth century) (Person)
- Clark, Margaret (Person)
Language of Materials
English Latin
Conditions Governing Access
Access is open to researchers by appointment at the Fashion Institute of Technology Library, Department of Special Collections and FIT Archive. If you have any questions, or wish to schedule an appointment contact us at [email protected] or call (212) 217-4385.
Conditions Governing Use
The Department of Special Collections and FIT Archive does not own copyright for all material held in its physical custody. It is the researcher's obligation to abide by and satisfy copyright law (http://www.copyright.gov/title17/92chap1.html#108) when copying or using materials (including digital materials) found in or made available from the department. When possible, the department will inform a researcher about the copyright status of material, the researcher's obligations with regard to such material, and, wherever possible, the owner or owners of the copyrights. Any and all reproduction of originals is at the archivist's discretion.
Biographical / Historical
Grandson of Israel Miller, the founder of a shoe manufacturing firm established in the late 1800’s, Jerry Miller began his career in shoe fashions in the late 1940’s when he worked for Mademoiselle Shoe Co., a forecasting firm. Miller married the Parsons-trained Margaret Clark and in the early 1950’s they set up their own company, the Margaret Clark Design Studio. In 1954, the two founded their own wholesaling shoe company, Shoe Biz, selling Clark’s design under the label "Margaret Jerrold." Other brand names included Pancaldi (Walter Steiger, principle designer,) Edouard Jerrold (Jann Johnson, principle designer) and Shoe Strings (Donald Hubbard, principle designer). Margaret Jerrold shoes were known for their high style and fine workmanship. In 1960, her designs appeared on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar. Margaret, a graduate of the University of Oklahoma School of Fine Arts and Parsons School of Design designed shoes that were sold in Lord & Taylor, Saks, Nordstroms and Neiman-Marcus.
In 1960, and in 1961 she received the National Shoe Retailers Award and in 1964 the Neiman-Marcus award. In 1964 she retired due to poor health. In the mid 1960’s Miller turned his attention to retailing, and leased shoe departments in such stores as Bendel’s. He later moved to Europe where he set up shoe manufacturing operations in Greece, Spain and Italy. By 1979 he had extended his empire to the Philippines and was producing over 40 million pairs of shoes in sixty factories worldwide. Shoe designers like Moya Bowler and Walter Steiger designed a full range of shoes from evening wear to active sports. His Shoe Biz line was launched with great fanfare in 1977. Vogue, Cosmopolitan and Harper’s Bazaar all favorably covered this effort, but in 1982 this line of foreign-produced shoes folded due to the economic climate. Miller’s shoes, from the day of Margaret Jerrold to Shoe Biz, were known for their trendy, fast and avant-garde style and outstanding advertising and promotional efforts.
Biographical / Historical
Parsons-trained Margaret Clark married shoe designer Jerry Miller and in the early 1950's they set up their own company, the Margaret Clark Design Studio. In 1954, the two founded their own wholesaling shoe company, Shoe Biz, selling Clark's design under the label "Margaret Jerrold." Other brand names included Pancaldi (Walter Steiger, principle designer) Edouard Jerrold (Jann Johnson, principle designer) and Shoe Strings (Donald Hubbard, principle designer). Margaret Jerrold shoes were known for their high style and fine workmanship. In 1960, her designs appeared on the cover of Harper's Bazaar. Margaret, a graduate of the University of Oklahoma School of Fine Arts and Parsons School of Design designed shoes that were sold in Lord & Taylor, Saks, Nordstrom's and Nieman-Marcus. In 1960, and in 1961 she received the National Shoe Retailers Award and in 1964 the Nieman-Marcus award. In 1964 she retired due to poor health.
Full Extent
1 placeholder : 5.5 linear feet of material consisting of 4752 sketches in pencil, ink and gouache, 102 pattern pieces, 224 ads primarily from the New York Times, 47 photographs, assorted press clippings, and 43 spiral-bound catalogs.
Arrangement
This collection is housed in 27 boxes and several loose scrapbooks. Folders in boxes mostly serve to organize loose sketches and make them easier to locate, and don't seem to bear any connection to an original order. Loose sketches and clippings are numbered on the back, while bound sketches are not. Legacy box numbers have been retained from the original finding aid to retain any original provenance.
Custodial History
* Collection originally processed and original finding aid written by Whitney Blausen.
* At an unknown date, the collection was partially rehoused, but no documentation of this new arrangement were kept.
* 2024: Collection's rehousing was completed with a new finding aid, with first finding aid's notes kept to retain some of the collection's original order.
Immediate Source of Acquisition
* November, 1985 - Jerrold Miller and Mrs. Faïe J. Joyce
Appraisal
* Many sketches were clipped and mounted onto paper with an adhesive that resembles rubber cement. This adhesive has mostly dried and is no longer holding onto the sketches, which are now fully loose in the folders. Some sketches have thus been separated from their original order, while others may fall out of their folders if not handled carefully. Adhesive has left significant staining, although mostly the sketches are in very good condition. Some of the adhesive is still sticky, so some loose pages in the folders are lightly sticking to each other.
* Labels on archival boxes attribute sketches to certain of Miller and Clark's companies (e.g. Shoe-Biz).
* Original preservation efforts included clipping loose sketches and swatches to sketches with metal paperclips that have begun to rust and have permanently creased the material. They were replaced with plastic clips (plastiklips).
Existence and Location of Originals
The Library of the Fashion Institute of Technology, Department of Special Collections and FIT Archive, 27th St. at 7th Ave., NY, NY , USA, 10001
General
Grandson of Israel Miller, the founder of a shoe manufacturing firm established in the late 1800’s, Jerry Miller began his career in shoe fashions in the late 1940’s when he worked for Mademoiselle Shoe Co., a forecasting firm. Miller married the Parsons-trained Margaret Clark and in the early 1950’s they set up their own company, the Margaret Clark Design Studio. In 1954, the two founded their own wholesaling shoe company, Shoe Biz, selling Clark’s design under the label "Margaret Jerrold." Other brand names included Pancaldi (Walter Steiger, principle designer,) Edouard Jerrold (Jann Johnson, principle designer) and Shoe Strings (Donald Hubbard, principle designer). Margaret Jerrold shoes were known for their high style and fine workmanship. In 1960, her designs appeared on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar. Margaret, a graduate of the University of Oklahoma School of Fine Arts and Parsons School of Design designed shoes that were sold in Lord & Taylor, Saks, Nordstroms and Neiman-Marcus.
In 1960, and in 1961 she received the National Shoe Retailers Award and in 1964 the Neiman-Marcus award. In 1964 she retired due to poor health. In the mid 1960’s Miller turned his attention to retailing, and leased shoe departments in such stores as Bendel’s. He later moved to Europe where he set up shoe manufacturing operations in Greece, Spain and Italy. By 1979 he had extended his empire to the Philippines and was producing over 40 million pairs of shoes in sixty factories worldwide. Shoe designers like Moya Bowler and Walter Steiger designed a full range of shoes from evening wear to active sports. His Shoe Biz line was launched with great fanfare in 1977. Vogue, Cosmopolitan and Harper’s Bazaar all favorably covered this effort, but in 1982 this line of foreign-produced shoes folded due to the economic climate. Miller’s shoes, from the day of Margaret Jerrold to Shoe Biz, were known for their trendy, fast and avant-garde style and outstanding advertising and promotional efforts.
General
Parsons-trained Margaret Clark married shoe designer Jerry Miller and in the early 1950's they set up their own company, the Margaret Clark Design Studio. In 1954, the two founded their own wholesaling shoe company, Shoe Biz, selling Clark's design under the label "Margaret Jerrold." Other brand names included Pancaldi (Walter Steiger, principle designer) Edouard Jerrold (Jann Johnson, principle designer) and Shoe Strings (Donald Hubbard, principle designer). Margaret Jerrold shoes were known for their high style and fine workmanship. In 1960, her designs appeared on the cover of Harper's Bazaar. Margaret, a graduate of the University of Oklahoma School of Fine Arts and Parsons School of Design designed shoes that were sold in Lord & Taylor, Saks, Nordstrom's and Nieman-Marcus. In 1960, and in 1961 she received the National Shoe Retailers Award and in 1964 the Nieman-Marcus award. In 1964 she retired due to poor health.
General
Published
Processing Information
This collection was previously processed by Whitney Blausen. Her arrangement has largely been retained in this current finding aid.
Subject
- Miller, Jerry (Twentieth century) (subject, Person)
- Clark, Margaret (subject, Person)
- Margaret Jerrold, Inc. (subject, Organization)
- Shoe Biz, Inc. (subject, Organization)
- Title
- Jerry Miller collection, 1948-1982
- Date
- 2024-07-05
- Description rules
- Aat; Ansi; Dacs; Dcmi; Isad(g); Iso; Lo C; Niso; Etc
- Language of description
- English
- Script of description
- Code for undetermined script
- Language of description note
- English Latin
Repository Details
Part of the Special Collections and FIT Archive Repository