Fashion sketches and illustrations, 1920-1939, 1920-1939

Coco Chanel (1883-1971) was a French fashion designer and the founder of the Chanel brand. Chanel is renowned for her prolific post- World War I fashion creations, including the Chanel suit, quilted Chanel purses, and Chanel fragrances. In addition, Chanel is famous for popularizing the "little black dress." Designs by Chanel emphasized simplicity and elegance. Chanel is considered one of the most influential designers of the 20th century.

Jean Patou (1887-1936) was a French fashion designer. He began his career by opening a dressmaking shop in 1912 called Maison Parry. Following the end of World War I in 1919, Patou reopened his business and established the House of Patou. In addition to designing luxury fashions, Patou became popular for his sportwear designs, dressing famous tennis stars of the 1920s. Patou also launched a number of popular perfumes, most notably the floral scent, "Joy."

Belle Epoque couturier; had extensive library, frequented artists and writers of avant-garde 1880-d.

Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) was a French fashion designer. Beginning her career as a milliner, Lanvin opened the House of Lanvin in 1893. In 1909, Lanvin joined the Syndicat de la Couture, the reglating body of French fashion houses. In addition to women's fashion, Lanvin also designed menwear and children's clothes. After her death in 1946, her daughter hired Antonio Castillo as head designer.

Jeanne Adele "Jenny" Sacerdote (née Bernard) was a French fashion designer. She opened her first boutique in 1909 in Paris and is the creator of iconic styles including the boat neck and the "little gray suit." In 1926, Sacerdote became the second ever woman to be made a Knight of the Legion of Honour for services to fashion.

French fashion designer

Known as the King of Fashion, Paul Poiret, born in France in 1879, was a celebrated French couturier active during the first half of the 20th century. He began his career selling designs to French fashion houses. Jacques Doucet hired him in 1889, where he stayed until drafted into the military in 1900. A year later, Poiret was hired by the House of Worth to create subtle garments that would offset Worth's own show-stopping ensembles. This venture was short lived, however. Poiret left in 1903 to create his own fashion house, originally at 5 rue Auber. In 1906, Poiret debuted his first corset-less design. This act was among the first that would establish the young designer. Years later, he claimed he invented the corset-less style although both Lucille and Vionnet had also gotten rid of the irksome undergarment. While "freeing women from the corset," Poiret introduced the hobble skirt, which "shackled them at the knee." By 1909, Poiret was designing garments heavily influenced by the Near- and Far-East, Africa, and Antiquity. Poiret was also began collaborating with other artists around this time, producing two pochoir books, Les robes de Paul Poiret with Paul Iribe in 1908 and Les choses de Paul Poiret with Georges Lepape in 1911, as well as what is considered one of the first fashion photoshoots with Edward Steichen. After the Ballet Russe's success in Paris in 1909, Poiret began designing "orientalist" garments including “harem” pantaloons in 1911 and “lampshade” tunics in 1913. In addition to garments, Poiret began expanding into perfumes, home decor, art exhibitions, and even opening up a trade school, École Martine (all in 1911). Poiret left his position in 1914 to serve in the first World War. He returned in 1919 but by that time, his business was on the brink of bankruptcy. During his time away, younger designers were making a name for themselves, including a young Coco Chanel. Compared to these newer designs, Poiret's garments looked out-dated and dowdy. His brand continued to deteriorate throughout the 1920s. The house closed in 1929. Poiret worked odd-jobs and often relied on the kindness of friends and acquaintances for financial help throughout the 1930s and up until his death in 1944.

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